The forward fuel filter is under the right side of the body between front and rear wheel areas. Note that the Chrysler part is wrapped with impact-resisting tape to minimize damage from rocks thrown up by the front wheels and insulate the filter from exhaust system heat, whereas the ones sold by Canadian Tire and Fram are not. When you hear the price from Chrysler you may decide to find some padding to wrap around a standard filter.

The hose has to withstand the pressure of the fuel injection system. That is nominally 48 psi but may go to 120 psi. Prestone sell hose with a working pressure of 100 psi (6.9 bar) that should be suitable.

The TOP marking referred to by the service manual for the valve used with 2.3/3.8L engines is cleverly hidden inside an unmarked rubbery shround that is stapled shut. The manual says the valve will not work if upside down.
So....FYI the electrical connector is at the top, and the vacuum hose goes to the lower of the two hose ports.

The valve is open when no power is applied, The solenoid is continuously energized when not in closed-loop mode, otherwise pulsed to match intake airflow. You can feel the pulsing.

Apparently carbon particles sometimes get in the valve and prevent complete closing

Hidden in the fuel tank, so you have to remove the tank (no access from inside the vehicl). You need the Service Manual for this.

This information is for front-wheel-drive, all-wheel-drive may be very different.

You can expect that the parts you may need are as follows: new fasteners to attach fuel tank retention strap (clip-nuts and bolts, probably 3/8" diameter, they are a close fit in the straps, the notch in the frame for the clip nuts is not large enough to get most open end wrenches in without cutting it larger - and forget a closed-end wrench as you may not be able to get it off the long bolt you'll need to use), clips for the drain hose or an alternative method (mine were falling apart), inlet tube seal (muff), electrical connector housing (it was brittle on mine), fuel pump of course, filter if not included with pump, pump gasket if not included with pump, pump retention ring (mine was quite rusty).
Tools may include a means of getting rusty bolts out (a long-handled ratchet - 15mm socket on medium length extension should work - or possibly cutting tools, a stable means of supporting the tank as you have to get it right up into the correct location before straps will get close enough to be attached), 10mm socket on long extension, pliers to remove cap, and means of dealing neatly and safely with fuel.

You'll need knowledge of working safely with fuel around,, including type of wipes avoidfs sparks.

There will be dust on top of the pump, you want to avoid getting that into the tank as it is very difficult to drain the tank completely - the pump hole is large enough to get a thin arm in to wipe dirt out, provided you take safety precautions. Best to turn the tank upside down then power-wash it, then remove the pump while still upside down. All the while keeping dirt out of your eyes (well, that's what face shields are for).

One piece of good news is that there is a drain hose capped at the back of the tank, you need to use some safe means of applying suction to get fuel flowing then it will siphon drain itself to low fuel level.

You'll have to loosen the filler tube at the filler panel, and loosen or remove a couple of shields below the filler tube (10mm socket, the aft one is the housing for parking brake adjustment).

Once you get the tank well supported for lowering you can drop it a bit, work on the filler tube, and get access to remove the filler vent tube that goes into the top centre of the tank, and disconnect the electrical (carefully, there is both a sideways slide lock and a pry up tab lock forward of it) and fuel/relief-vent lines.

To get the filler out and in you need to drop the right side of the tank enough to fit under the rear muffler, so you can move the tank to the right (the filler tube sticks far into the tank).

On my vehicle the quick-disconnect for the main fuel lines is on the frame whereas to the fuel pump is just hose clamps. The drain hose is a tricky quick-disconnect to be careful you don't break, you'll need to transfer that to the new pump.
Replacement clip-nuts and matching serrated-washer bolts may be hard to find. If you try to use standard fasteners, you may have to enlarge holes in the frame to get a wrench in, and you should ensure locking means on both bolt head and nut if you use one (non-self-locking clipnuts may be found in the body fasteners selection of an auto parts store.

© Keith Sketchley Page version 2012.09.19

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