CARAVAN DOOR TRIM REMOVAL (based on a deluxe trim 1994 model) Note: most of this is to get full access inside the door. For some things like the window & mirror switch panel you should go directly to that section which may be much easier. (I suggest arming yourself with double-sided tape or "mastic" sealant that will remain tacky, to re-attach the plastic sheet behind the trim panel, as its attaching mastic tends to go hard and as well you may need more spots from it getting torn.) SCREWS Remove screw visible when inside handle is pulled, to detach its surround by pulling it over the handle. Remove plugs four locations: door horizontal pull large screw, door vertical pull at top, map pocket (two). (Need a slim knife or such tool, perhaps Lisle small trim remover will work.) Remove screws those locations. Remove screw at top fwd corner. SWITCH PANEL Pop out switch panel (one spring latch each end) and pull it out to disconnect its two connectors/pull large connector & switch out of panel. See notes below re latches/retention. PANEL LOWER CLIPS Pull trim panel out at bottom progressing to top - panel will remain attached at window. (All but top retention at window are pop out fasteners of typical automotive trim type.) Don't lose any. LIGHT ASSEMBLY & HANDLES Disconnect connector to light assembly. You might tilt inner handle surround to push it back through opening, rather than disconnect its connector (door lock switch). PANEL TOP CLIPS Pulling panel out to clear lock knob, force panel upward to clear two retainer brackets at window opening (one aft one fwd, with foam pad to left of each one). (Trim panel hooks over the brackets with a detent bump. Window lower edge seal is part of trim panel.) SPEAKER To get plastic panel off and see into latch area you may need to remove a speaker assembly. To change window glass you probably have to remove speaker, which there is a hole in the speaker mounting panel to insert a socket extender bar to reach the aft window retention nut, can you get a hand in to hold the plastic glass gripper piece which is not keyed to anything to prevent rotation? The speaker is on a plastic mounting plate, which was fastened to door structure with four large-diameter blind rivets (may not be Chrysler original as it was obvious the water shield had been removed previously). Trying to drill the rivets out will likely not succeed because the rivet will spin on the plastic, I had success by pulling on the rivet head with a tack remover (sharp notched end) to resising turning. Using a chisel doesn't work well, but may bend the head enough to claw hammer behind the head or a vice-grips on it and twist it inward. To reinstall, I used blind threaded inserts, having to drill the holes a bit larger to fit 1/4-20 size, which require a matching tool. A cheaper way may be to use barbed inserts made for furniture, needing enlargement of the hole and a good way of pushing them in without bending the panel (perhaps a smaller bolt and nut plus washers, with wood spreader behind the panel). A dealer used large PK screws, but they did not seem tight. The speaker connector latch may be awkward, you push down on a small tab. Speaker Grill (Infinity option) You can leave speaker grill in place (attached to trim panel with hooks at bottom and snap-studs at top corners). GLASS The window glass is held at the bottom with two bolts that tighten two plastic disks against the glass, one of them having a captive nut, the other tightening against the glass with left-hand threads in the two plastic pieces. You have to reach behind the glass with fingers to keep the outer plastic disk from turning while turning the bolt. The aft bolt hole is oversize for adjustment. The manual says you can put the glass in or take it out through the window opening, I did it by tilting front end first. Make sure you get the glass in the rubber/felt channels inside the door. SEALS The glass run channel/seal has a clip at the forward upper corner, a stud holds the rubber seal to it, just pry the whole assembly out. Ensure the bottom corners are in place correctly, the front one has to line up with the run channel in the door, and both have to match the blade seal on the inside of the outer trim. OUTER TRIM Bottom has five small screws. Upper edges held by 7 clips, tricky to get in place over the plastic + door sheet metal, check they are no open to far or squeezed too tight. MIRROR: Wiring is top connector, a black plastic piece snaps out giving better access to route wiring of replacement mirror. Held by three nuts onto studs in the mirror assembly. 8mm hex flats. (Suggest magnetic wrench or hold fingernail over end of socket to remove without dropping, perhaps from below with black plastic piece out of the way.) Mirror is a complicated assembly. You can see the inside of it by popping the inner end off (visible tab at bottom when folded forward, similar tab well inside). The manual diagnoses heated mirror to the point of saying to replace it but does not detail how. There are two screws under the fragile flexible seal around the mounting but removing those is not enough, perhaps there is a hidden clip. There are two difficult to get at screws partly visible with the mirror removed. Mirror stud pattern 1 11/16 x 2 1/8 x 2 13/16 inches. Surround 2 1/4, 2 5/8, 3 5/16 so approx 1/2" greater (surround matches built-in washers on studs, i.e. corners circular at 1/4" radius). Dust Barrier Dust barrier self-tack adhesive, can see into latch area but difficult to understand and main latch somewhat hidden - might need to remove speaker to get adequate hand access to re and re the barrier completely. Do it carefully, especially at cutouts, preferable heating the area to soften adhesive. I had to use double-sided carpet tape to re-install it (medium thickness type, thin type can be difficult to peel the backing off). The material on a 1994 is Soundloc by Cadillac Industries Inc, looks like thick Mylar sheet but is actually a sound absorbing material on a thin poly sheet, I don't think it's a a great sound reducer but I suppose it all helps. You have to be very careful removing it as the adhesive can be strong, best to heat the area first. There's supposed to be a small sheet of simple clear plastic over the holes accessing mirror bolts, I use low-tack adhesive on it (should be available in spray can or glue stick). CONNECTOR & SWITCH RETENTION Large connector and window switch assembly has key projection one side to fit correctly into the small switch panel - key goes inboard/fwd (the connector latches near two corners do not need undoing to remove from switch panel - retention of switch assembly into panel unkown, seems to be just snap fit). Medium connector has latch one end. Small connector (light) has latch one side. The mirror and power window switch blocks pop out of the switch panel, carefully - you can see the latches on the sides (you'll have to stick something on one side after unlatching it, otherwise it tends to relatch as you unlatch the other side, be careful not to break the latch piece). The switch blocks can be taken apart, carefully of course, to clean out some of the gunk with toothpick/Q-Tip, and lightly abrade the contacts (it'll take an especially slim point file or perhaps an eraser). When taking apart the windows switch block don't lose the brass side-side selector contacts with their springs. The window switch assembly is keyed together by differing ledge heights, and keyed into the panel by different width of tabs. Window switch block Eaton Chrysler 12484 (56006897). The mirror switch buttons can be removed by removing the contact-pressure caps, then carefully prying away the latch on the centre side of each post and pushing the switches out.The mirror switch assembly obviously fits together only one way, direction switches have very little travel and are marginal on friction within that range (pushed further out they'll have more friction, feels like there is a bit of a I forget. Keying into the panel is obvious if you look at orientation for the user and differing tab widths. Mirror block 23199 4685055. The mirror connector is attached to the door with a barbed projection into a plastic dish, the dish can be popped out. To get the mirror connector out through the hole in the door skin you have to remove the barb, which slides out once you lift the end. MIRROR Held on by three studs, getting the nuts off and out of the door is tricky, a magnetized socket would be helpful. LATCH ASSEMBLY (Latch assembly has three screw heads on aft edge of door.) ANTI-RATTLE PIECES Window anti-rattle snub adjustable centre of window lower sill. Foam block aft lower corner also snubs - foam block fwd lower corner appears not to snub. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Copyright Keith Sketchley 2022.07.03 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- BACK in your browser should return you to the page you came here from.