TUBE FLARING TOOLS
Herein I provide some information on using tools to make flares in the end of tubing.
This is not complete, my intent is to provide some scope to get you stared.
My experience is with "double" or "inverted" flares in automotive brake line tubing, that's the conical flare with the end of the tubing folded in on itself, 45 degrees.
Old automobiles may use a single conical flare, some later and European automobiles use a "bubble" flare.
Tubing may be metric or Imperial measurements, 3/16 inch tubing is the same as 4.75mm.
Fedhill's web site www.fedhillusa.com has much advice on brake lines, they rent/sell flaring tools and sell quality line.
Papco's brake line catalogue has some information on where different line and fitting types are found but does not correctly cover all Fiats.
Richard Ridge's web pate on bubble flaring Fiat Spyder lines suggests that Spyders prior to 1979 and the Fiat 124 cars use double flare.
It's a bit of a zoo with combinations of sizes of tubing, thread type, wrench flats, and flare type
The alternative:
First I suggest the alternative of buying a new line with ends already on, desirably fully bent for the specific vehicle.
Otherwise that approach takes much fiddling with bending to match the existing line. (Papco's line includes ones with the armoured wire coil that some vehicles have.)
But it avoids the difficult process of making a new flare on the end of existing tubing. Note that making a new end shortens the tube a bit (length of nut and a bit more).
If you can get the line out of the vehicle, consider paying someone who has a hydraulic tool to make the flare for you.
Note there are adapter fittings, and adapter short lines and hoses.
Criteria for tools:
(My experience is with the serrated clamp-bars + point-driver type.
- obviously tool has to be for the right kind of flare, cheapest will be only for single flare, tools for conical and bubble flares are different though you might get both in an expensive kit.
- handle the tubing size you have (some like Lisle do not go down to 3/16").
- compact, if you are repairing a line while it is on the vehicle.
- rigidity. The common clamp bar tool has to fully clamp the tubing to hold it against the force of the conical point, if the tubing slips the flare will be too shallow. (Stainless steel lines require a much stronger tool, most lines are mild steel with coating, some lines are a fancy alloy of copper.)
- what kit contains (some include deburring tool, and/or cutting tool, even a tube bender).
Some tools
> Flaring tool:
- Consider renting a quality tool.
- GearWrench 41860/KD 41860 is barely adequate for inverted/double flare type, it incudes a deburring tool.
Rigidity of the clamp bars is barely adequate. (Som people say they put the clamp bar set into a vice, but I don't seen how that can work due to the point-driving apparatus, unless they include it which might make it easier to use.) The package says useable up to .040" wall thickness, but not to use on stainless steel. I judge it not suitable for any steel.
I found I had to make sure the cone was centered for the first forming, and to not overdo the second forming. (This tool does not have enough thread engagent in the conical point forcer to limit tilt of the point.)
Has an extra 3/16 nipple for when you lose the first one.
- KD appears to be morphing into GearWrench
- OTC 4503 is another double-flare kit, selling for less than the 41860, but while I've seen a good review by a mechanic I'd go higher instead to increase chances of quality.
- Lisle kits do not support 3/16" tubing.
- Snap-on has kits for double and bubble flares, should support 3/16" tubing.
- Ridgid 345DL is of the serrated clamps + point-driver style but more compact than others, looks more convenient to use, but I don't see how it centres on the tubing (unless the clamp is squeezed fully closed).
> Bending tool:
I tried a GearWrench 2517D (KD with prefix probably same), but found it awkward so did most of the bending by hand. (The 2517D has a notched bar that pivots around a grooved drum. You have to memorize which way around the tool goes for directions of bends. The tool of course has to have the right grooves for the line, note wire wrap is larger - for 3/16" line a 7/16" groove was needed.)
The wire protective wrap used on some lines makes bending more awkward, usually you have to slide it to one end of the tubing to minimize shift.
General tips:
- Having the old end of the line handy helps show what a good flare looks like.
- Think about how you are going to hold the tubing while you struggle to turn knobs and levers on the tool.
- How will you turn the tool knobs and levers? I found the 41860 required use of pliers to turn the clamp t-knobs, and a pipe to extend the turn bar of the point-pushing apparatus.
- Another bother is the wire wrap on some lines, you have to peel it back to provide enough space for the clamp bar and new nut.
- You may need to straighten the end of the tube a bit to get the new nut down the tube far enough to clear the clamp bars, a bit of grease may help, but first check for a burr created by pliers.
- Note that the serrated clamp-type tool puts small grooves into the tube.
- Chrysler's IPC does not list the line itself, but Papco and Weatherhead sell premade lines of various lengths including some with the protective wire wrap.
- Chrysler's end fitting for 3
/16" double flare is 60348800, a "100X3" from Lordco works but has 10mm flats rather than Chrysler's 3/16" - appears to be brass.which is good.
© Keith Sketchley Page version 2015.07.21
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