ENGINE MOUNTS

FRONT
The service manual illustration of the front mount of the 3.3L engine with 4S automatic transmission omits the hard-to-get-at upper bolt (figure 3 of the engine section shows it, location is somewhat high up but below the exhaust manifold, the radiator is close to the engine).
Besides supporting the engine-transaxle combination, you may need a way to move the engine aft so the mount holder can clear the engine bracket, a light scissors jack may work.
Torque from driving the vehicle into position may rotate the engine, I suggest chocking the vehicle and putting transmission in neutral, or jacking vehicle so tires are off the ground. One bolt of the mount holder goes into a captive nut in the front frame, I don't know if there is a way to get penetrant inside the frame. The other two attachments are studs.

The rubber insert fits into the bracketry called "front mount insulator" in figure 5 of the transmission section of the manual. Make a note of which way the rubber is oriented - there is a large gap between the boss area and housing on one side. Once the retaining tab is pried open it can easily be pounded out. Installing the new one will require two clamps to compress it before pounding it in, perhaps even pounding the sides more flat.

If the upper bracket bolt migrated out, as mine had, the way I re-installed it was:
(The bolt goes into a threaded hole in the left end of the engine block, just below the coolant return tube.)
- push engine aft
- take the mount holder off
- remove the lower bolts of the bracket
- hook a stiff wire into one of the holes in the bracket
- support the bracket loosely from below, near its normal position
- pull the bracket up with the wire
- you can get a hand on the bracket enough to line it up with the threaded boss on the engine block (use a small mirror), then thread the bolt most of the way in (thread is 12mm by 1.75mm pitch, 45 mm long bolt fits, I'd go for a bolt without captive washer and use a good lockwasher as Chrysler's captive washer is weak).
- install lower bolts, leave them somewhat loose, tighten top bolt, tighten lower bolts.
(The lower bolts are 10mm by 1.5 mm pitch by 23 mm shank plus allowance for captive washer, I recommend replacing with somewhat longer bolts as they tend to loosen and wear, and with a good lock washer instead of captive washer as Chrysler's are weak. You can pad with extra washers so the bolt does not bottom in the hole.)

© Keith Sketchley Page version 2014.03.07

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