DODGE CARAVAN
This page provides brief advice on usability and reliability of the Dodge Caravan, which was also sold as the Chrysler Town & Country and Plymouth Voyager (and even as Chrysler Voyager in later years). I focus on the version produced in the early 1990s (through the 1995 model year), which has most of the inner structure of the original version. Later models may have substantial changes in the body structure, which might affect packaging-related factors.
My experience is with a 1994 model, FWD, 3.3 litre engine, 4-speed electronically-controlled AT, with rear heat-A/C, high trim/options (lower body trim, lighting/sound/power opening/trip computer options). I anticipate 1995 models will be quite similar, but 1993 and earlier models will be different in dash areas.
This is the new version of this page.
Table Of Contents
GENERAL INFORMATION
- Space
- Ride
- Bumpers vs curbs
- Tire chains
- 3.0 LITRE ENGINE
- 3.3 & 3.8 LITRE ENGINE
- Engine size
- Transmission
- Air conditionning
- Remote key system
- Theft
- Hidden relay panel
- More hidden things (another relay panel or two, body computer, air bag module)
- Even more hidden things (a vacuum tank)
- Preventative maintenance
- Service manual
SPECIFIC SERVICING/MAINTENANCE
- Spark plug replacement
- Alternator replacement
- Valve cover seals
- Accessory Drive belt
- Parking brake pedal replacement
- Door adjustment
- Fuel filter
- Fuel pump
- Ball joints
- Trouble codes
- Headlight cover
- Front door lining removal
- Rear hatch lining removal, release solenoid, license plate lights
- Heater fan
- Spare tire hoist
- Radio
Do your homework
SPACE
The defining attribute of the Caravan was interior space in a low height package (so it would fit into standard car garages).
RIDE
To get that low height, suspension travel is limited. Thus ride on anything but smooth pavement is rough. (It is quite nice on smooth pavement, depending in part on the tires - with decent fuel economy on level roads it is a good freeway cruiser. My experience is with the single leaf rear springs - the multi-leaf heavy-duty rear suspension may be worse, and the all-wheel-drive suspension may be somewhat different.)
BUMPERS VS CURBS
Some bumper shrouds are closer to the ground (the fancy lower body trim package is closer to the ground). They catch on parking lot blocks that are higher than normal, the shroud rides over it but gets damaged when it catches as you back out of the spot. Ideally Chrysler's designers should have rounded the aft edge of the shroud so it would ride over the blocks both directions. You can replace the sacrificial pop rivets holding the aft side onto the frame, and put a strap over broken tabs, but the shroud may break at the ends of the slot opening in the front. Repair of that could cost several hundred dollars: a rebuilt shroud, paint work to match your colour, and remove & replace labour.
TIRE CHAINS
The tight packaging design resulted in limited clearance between the front tires and the front suspension struts, thus making use of traction chains difficult.
With the larger tires common in the 1990s (P205/70R15) you must use low-profile chains, install them the right way around to lay flatter against tire sidewall, tighten them, and drive slowly.
Note that the shape of cable chains vary somewhat, especially with newer types being introduced - simply specifying "cable" or "radial" chains is not enough. You want simple ones with low-profile joints, space class S (not W or U or larger) - or preferably slimmer than space class S, such as the basic cable and Z-cable chains made by Shure Chain. Those are slim chains: 10mm, whereas the already slim S class limit is 15mm. Definitely cable chains, not conventional link chain. (The Z chain runs the cables diagonally across the tread for better performance with anti-lock brakes compared to the standard ladder-style cable chain.
Friends have an alternative, an assembly of plastic grips that clamp onto the wheel from the outside with minimal projection over the inner shoulder, named something like Spider Spikes.
3.0 LITRE ENGINE
The Mistubishi 3.0 litre V-6 engine is prone to premature wearout of valve guides and seals. People advise that if it is smoking you should expect to need to replace the guides, not just the seals as you might get away with on other engines.
Rebuilding both heads is expensive. However, as a silent-shaft OHC design the engine may be desirable, though it has a distributor thus more tuneup parts than the Chrysler engine (the 3.3/3.8 litre engine).
3.3/3.8 LITRE ENGINE
The Chrysler 3.3/3.8 litre V-6 engine is a conventional pushrod design with the cam in the block. Less costly to make, and providing torque which is useful in a big heavy vehicle, but lacking the silent shaft thus not as smooth in some driving conditions. It has electronic fuel injection and distributorless ignition.
Unfortunately it is a stuff job in the body structure which is really the original 1980s structure with gussied up exterior, so working on it is very time-consuming - especially as Chrysler did not relocate things like A/C plumbing and brake lines to maximize clearance for working on the engine.
ENGINE SIZE
The Caravan was available with a 4-cylinder engine, but I expect it is rare except in the early years, as for a large vehicle it was low on power.
Mileage on level highways is surprisingly good in my experience, confirmed by others. (It does have sensible front-end aerodynamic shape.) This is a good freeway cruiser, efficient and roomy. Less useful around town due rough suspension, weight thus fuel consumption, and difficulty parking because you cannot see the rear corners (the body sides have a subtle curvature sufficient to obscure the rear corners - no discrete bumper ends to see, the Caravan is worse than the much longer Dodge Maxivan).
If you have the long body and heavy options like LH sliding door on newer models, load it with people, and climb hills you may find the 3.8 litre engine the best due to its greter torque. But don't abuse that light transmission underneath it.
Note however that the front-wheel-drive vans like the Caravan are not good trailer-towing vehicles. I suggest a truck-based design like the Chevrolet Astro/GM Safari or larger for durability (the Caravan and its competitors such as the Chevrolet Lumina/Montana use beefed up versions of car components in their drive-trains, the Astro & kin use pickup truck components). Though I might be tempted by the new rear-wheel-drive performance sedans from Chrysler. :-) Naw, I think heft is good for towing - wonder if I could find a 1950s Chrysler 300 with a Hemi or similar biggie under the hood. (A dually pick-em-up is so "common" these days. ;-)
TRANSMISSION
The 4-speed automatic had reliability problems, from two primary causes arising from its light-weight design:
- fatigue of rotating components (fixed in later years)
- abuse (spinning wheels on icy pavement is risky, as the shock loading from hitting a dry patch is severe).
Chrysler improved the transmission over the first few years of production, so the 1995 model is good as long as it has not been abused.
In general the high degree of electronic control in this transmission works well. It is somewhat prone to malfunction from poor electrical connections - so before panicking check that the ground wires are electrically well attached. (One may be on a sub-frame at the left end of the transmission.)
Some owners have noticed a bit of jumpiness at very low speeds, perhaps due to the transmission not down-shifting all the way when the vehicle slows gradually to a stop thus having to downshift when it starts moving again. That is not of much concern, supposedly fixed in later versions.
The lock-up converter clutch housing may crack, leaking fluid thus not locking up strongly enough. Modified transmission programming may raise the lockup speed so it is not excercised as much on arterial streets. Of course the clutch friction surface will wear, as will other clutches in the automatic transmission.
AIR CONDITIONNING
The A/C components are not as reliable as desired, though it is a tough job - lots of glass area, and some vehicles have a rear condensor but the same single compressor.
REMOTE KEY SYSTEM
With remote key fobs for any vehicle you should be careful not to sit on the fob. Some Caravan fobs required only a single press to unlock the rear hatch - a dealer should be able to reprogram that to require two presses.
THEFT
Thieves like the Caravan because it is easy to steal, innocent looking, and after the easy-unlatch seats are thrown out can carry lots of stolen stuff.
I recommend using a good steering wheel lock, such as the Club, and desirably an anti-theft system of the immobilizing type (plus noisemaker as you also want to slow down those who would break in and grab the contents).
Note that most vans do not have the lockable trunk that cars do, and the flush windows on the Caravan are easy to break open. (Praise to Chrysler for introducing wells in the floor on their newest models, at least with their stowing-seats option - I hope they are lockable.)
HIDDEN RELAY PANEL
And another poor access design feature is hiding a secondary relay panel in the left side of the dash (never mind that the service manual says center). Disconnect the parking brake release handle, remove five screws holding the lower dash left cover panel, remove four screws holding a strong-looking metal cover - and there they are! Lighting, rear hatch, rear heater & A/C, and a few other functions are hidden there. It is called “Relay Block”, diagram AS-HK 151 of the wiring diagrams in section 8W of the service manual (page 8W-206 of the one I have).
Not to be confused with the "Micro Relay Block", hidden behind the center of the dash. It has relays for options such as power windows, power door unlock, power seat, fog lamps and fancy speakers relay. (A relay for speakers? yes, on the wiring diagram for radio "with NBS". It feeds power to the optional speakers in the front doors and liftgate, which apparently require a power feed to them unlike regular speakers. In my vehicle those speakers are labelled Infinity, as is the radio. They are powerful.) Refer to wiring diagram AS-HK 152, which claims location is "right side of I.P." - perhaps the Instrument Panel ends in the centre stack and to the right of the interior is something else. Refer to "More Hidden Things" section below.
(Do keep in mind that the main relay panel is beside the battery - most engine control fuses and relays are there, it is called the "power distribution center". The inside of the cover has labels. Typically there is a fuse for each relay. Note the yellow collar to quickly pull out the direct battery feed fuse (Ignition Off Draw, called "IOD" in wiring diagrams). The heavy duty fuses on the left side of the vehicle are fed by a rail connected to the red feed wire from the battery. (The other red feed wire is from the alternator, the two are connected together.) The small fuses that typically provide power to the switched contact of the relays as well as loads outside the panel are fed power in two groups, but both groups are fed from the common rail.)
MORE HIDDEN THINGS
are revealed when you try to service the cigar lighter power socket in the centre dash area, or remove the bin or CD changer at the bottom of the center dash. If you wondered where certain relays and modules were, voila!
I believe the modules are:
- "body computer" (which the general service manual claims is "right of the steering column" but the body diagnostic manual specifically advises is here), probably with one blue and one natural colour 25-contact connector. It performs various utility functions and computes fuel mileage and trip data for the optional overhead console display.
(Note the body diagnostic manual specifically advises it is behind the left lower dash on 1993 model.)
- an airbag module (which the service manual claims is in the "centre rear of instrument panel"), with one yellow 4-contact connector and one black 13-contact connector. It is the more sealed and securely mounted module.
(Supposedly the transmission control module is on the right firewall forward side or RH fender shield (without and with 4WD), the ABS module if installed is well below the power centre (underhood LH), and a "powertrain control module" is immediately under the power centre location aka "LH fender shield (that module being what is called the "engine computer" by those of us who think the powertrain is both engine and transmission - note the transmission computer is a late addition to the Caravan).
The relays are the "micro relay block" covered in "Hidden Relay Panel" above.
PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE
Can improve reliability, reduce parts cost, and reduce labour.
Considerations include aging of materials and rusting. An example:
The grommet in the rear valve cover of the 3.3L V-6 in my 1994 Caravan hardened so was leaking oil. Getting at it is diffculty due to the alternator bracket and other parts, it was too hard to just pop out as designed - couldn't even pull out the tube that goes into it. Cutting it is risky as rubber chips might get into the oiling system and plug something.
The vacuum line from the grommet to the PCV valve was also hardening, putting extra stress on the rubber elbow that attaches the valve to the intake manifold. (1/2" fuel hose appears to work.)
Replacement of grommet or hose may be helped by blowing hot air in the grommet area.
Areas will vary with vehicle and vintage. Parts on my Caravan vary, some like coolant lines for the rear heater and these rubber parts are poor quality, others seem quite good. (Decades ago Chrysler knew about better materials, going to Vitorn instead of Neoprene on crucial engine seals. But people don't pass on knowledge, and bean counters or uncaring purchasing agents go cheap.)
EVEN MORE HIDDEN THINGS
Under the battery tray, removal of which requires undoing three bolts, is a vacuum tank of some kind. Not fuel vapour evaporation control purge which is a round tank at front right corner of engine compartment. This one is a slim rectangle. Two thin hard plastic tubes go to it, more fragile than normal hoses.
And the remote door lock radio receiver module is under the top centre covering of the dash.
SPARK PLUG REPLACEMENT
See my separate page to so you can remove and replace the engine spark plugs. Be prepared to go underneath the vehicle with it raised several inches, and with the less common tools detailed in that page. Yes, underneath!
VALVE COVER SEAL LEAKS
See my separate page on to so you can tighten the valve cover bolts to reduce leakage. Another underneath job. (I have not faced the question of how one would replace the seals - I wimped out and had a shop do it when they were in the engine bay for other reasons.
ALTERNATOR REPLACEMENT
See my separate page to so you can remove and replace the engine alternator. Be prepared to go underneath the vehicle with it raised several inches, and with the less common tools detailed in that page. Yes, underneath!
ENGINE ACCESSORY DRIVE BELT
See my separate page to so you can replace the engine accessory drive belt and prevent it from popping off in heavy rain or snow. Be prepared with the less common tools detailed in that page.
PARKING BRAKE PEDAL ASSEMBLY
Fix wear or replace it. An adventure that will reveal hidden goodies of electrical nature.
DOOR ADJUSTMENT/SAG
See my separate page to so you can adjust door sag and learn of a fatigue problem. Be prepared with the uncommon tools detailed in that page.
HEATER FAN
For heater blower and right vacuum actuator information, refer to the centre & right dash area page.
SERVICE MANUAL
While I'm on about deficiencies in the manual, note that the rear quarter window motor may be behind the rear edge of the window not down forward on top of the wheelwell (apparently installation redesigned - note the adapter bracket).
OTHER SERVICING
FUEL FILTER
The forward fuel filter is under the right side of the body between front and rear wheel areas. Note that the Chrysler part is wrapped with impact-resisting tape to minimize damage from rocks thrown up by the front wheels and insulate the filter from exhaust system heat, whereas the ones sold by Canadian Tire and Fram are not. When you hear the price from Chrysler you may decide to find some padding to wrap around a standard filter.
BALL JOINTS
Chrysler's procedure for checking ball joint wear is different from what shops are used to. I don't know if it is better or worse than the traditional way - only that shops seem to have difficulty finding the looseness that I can feel from the driver's seat. With weight on wheels you simply try to wiggle the grease nipple, per the Chrysler procedure.
FUEL PUMP
Hidden in the fuel tank, so you have to remove the tank (no access from inside the vehicl). You need the Service Manual for this.
This information is for front-wheel-drive, all-wheel-drive may be very different.
You can expect that the parts you may need are as follows: new fasteners to attach fuel tank retention strap (clip-nuts and bolts, probably 3/8" diameter, they are a close fit in the straps, the notch in the frame for the clip nuts is not large enough to get most open end wrenches in without cutting it larger - and forget a closed-end wrench as you may not be able to get it off the long bolt you'll need to use), clips for the drain hose or an alternative method (mine were falling apart), inlet tube seal (muff), electrical connector housing (it was brittle on mine), fuel pump of course, filter if not included with pump, pump gasket if not included with pump, pump retention ring (mine was quite rusty).
Tools may include a means of getting rusty bolts out (a long-handled ratchet - 15mm socket on medium length extension should work - or possibly cutting tools, a stable means of supporting the tank as you have to get it right up into the correct location before straps will get close enough to be attached), 10mm socket on long extension, pliers to remove cap, and means of dealing neatly and safely with fuel.
You'll need knowledge of working safely with fuel around, including type of wipes and avoiding sparks.
There will be dust on top of the pump, you want to avoid getting that into the tank as it is very difficult to drain the tank completely - the pump hole is large enough to get a thin arm in to wipe dirt cout, provided you take safety precautions. Best to turn the tank upside down then power-wash it, then remove the pump while still upside down. All the while keeping dirt out of your eyes (well, that's what face shields are for).
One piece of good news is that there is a drain hose capped at the back of the tank, you need to use some safe means of applying suction to get fuel flowing then it will drain itself to low fuel level.
You'll have to loosen the filler tube at the filler panel, and loosen or remove a couple of shields below the filler tube (10mm socket, the aft one is the housing for parking brake adjustment).
Once you get the tank well supported for lowering you can drop it a bit, work on the filler tube, and get access to remove the filler vent tube that goes into the top centre of the tank, and disconnect the electrical (carefully, there is both a sideways slide lock and a pry up tab lock forward of it) and fuel/relief-vent lines.
To get the filler out and in you need to drop the right side of the tank enough to fit under the rear muffler, so you can move the tank to the right (the filler tube sticks far into the tank).
On my vehicle the quick-disconnect for the main fuel lines is on the frame whereas to the fuel pump is just hose clamps. The drain hose is a tricky quick-disconnect to be careful you don't break, you'll need to transfer that to the new pump.
Replacement clip-nuts and matching serrated-washer bolts may be hard to find. If you try to use standard fasteners, you may have to enlarge holes in the frame to get a wrench in, and you should ensure locking means on both bolt head and nut if you use one (non-self-locking clipnuts may be found in the body fasteners selection of an auto parts store.
TROUBLE CODES
Through 1995 the Caravan and siblings used the "OBD I" diagnostic code system.
You can read the stored codes as flashes of the Service Engine light, by turning the ignition key on then off then on then off then on. Unlike other brands you do not need to jumper a connector to see the flashes, just use the ignition key sequence.
Refer to the service manual or Allpar.com for the format and a list of codes. Note that one code will always be seen to indicate that the computer and light circuit are working and to help distinguish between repeats of the code list.
Recognize that the codes are only a good start for diagnosis - you may have to think through the function of the part or system that the code points to and test some parts. (The specific meaning of some codes varies with model year.)
The transmission computer stores data, probably requiring test equipment to read it. The computer can be reprogrammed - you might consider having that done by a dealer as factors such as the torque converter clutch lock-up have been changed. (Lockup speed was raised to reduce wear on the clutch, as it was coming on and off on arterial streets (with speed limit of 40 mph, but common practice of driving a few mph faster, the vehicle was often fluctuating around the original lockup speed.)
HEADLIGHT COVER
Refer to the Headlight Cover Replacement page. The new headlight covers I purchased in 1994 suck in water!
DOOR LINING FRONT
Refer to the Door trim removal page.
REAR HATCH LINING
Refer to the Rear hatch lining page.
HEATER FAN
Refer to the Heater Fan page.
SPARE TIRE HOIST
The cable may rust, potentially dropping your tire on the road in the path of another vehicle. The hoist is replaceable as an assembly, not a difficult job though you should put penetrant on bolts before starting. Take money to your Chrysler/Dodge dealer and they'll sell you a hoist.
RADIO
Here are removal instructions for radio and speakers. On that site you can find some radio repair instructions, including inoperative display. The instructions are well worth the money both for the display and a general approach to other problems - I fixed my display and an intermittent volume problem (Infinity Radio-CD player). You should heed his general advice about what causes problems on the Alpine radios, be prepared to spend time on it.
Note this alternate site name for Car Stere Help.
And on Allpar forum you can find instructions to tweak the single-CD player to better play recorded discs.
DO YOUR HOMEWORK!
This is not a site to answer simplistic questions like "the shop says my brakes need replacing at 30,000 km - is that normal?".
Please do your homework, in three respects:
Review available sources of information, such as:
- Consumers Reports magazine summaries
- Alldata offers lists of Service Bulletins and advice services
- Allpar forum and Chrysler Minivan Forum have reference files and a question forum (but do your homework first to get maximum benefit)
Equip yourself with information and tools if you think you can do some diagnosis yourself (knowledge has value)
- in addition to the web sites listed above, try autodata.com for manuals that list trouble codes and check a good auto parts store for books by companies like Haynes
- you may be able to look up individual OBDII codes at http://www.actron.com/code_lookup.php
- get the factory service manual for your vehicle
Choose your repair shop wisely
Competence, honesty, and willingness to communicate with you are essential.
© Keith Sketchley Page version 2012.03.04
Please advise Keith if any links don't work or have become inappropriate - the Internet changes.